I thought these portraits of Justin, snapped in the graveyard of Trinity Church in Newport last spring, would be fitting on Halloween. He was giving his brand new suit a test run that day and certainly looked dapper! Here’s what Justin (a.k.a. Sartorialist Extraordinaire sent to earth from a time long past with a fountain of knowledge of all things vestments) had to say about it:
“The suit came from Indochino, a custom suiting company that makes made-to-measure suits, which fall somewhere between off the rack clothing and truly tailored, “bespoke” clothing. Made to measure suits are generally more expensive than off the rack, but offer a better fit and more opportunity for customization. Suits, particularly jackets, are a highly tailored garment (I like to think of them as edging into the territory of sculpture), and an off the rack garment just can’t fit the shape and contours of the wearer properly. Many are deliberately cut to accommodate as wide a range of body sizes as possible which creates a one size fits none jacket. Made to measure suits are just that, a suit made to the wearer’s measurements. Indochino offers measuring directions on their website, or you can have your measurements taken at one of their pop-up “Traveling Tailor” shops. At the shops, not only will a tailor take your measurements, but you’ll be fitted with jackets and trousers in their standard sizes and adjustments notated along with your measurements. These standard jackets and trousers are the best fit you could hope for off the rack, and the difference in the adjusted garment is noticeable. The whole experience also gives you an hour to interact with an actual person, ask questions, and learn a few things about yourself. Years ago, when I was measured for a bespoke suit in New York, I discovered that not only is one of my arms slightly longer than the other, but that I stand perpetually with one shoulder raised a little more than the other. Everyone has these imperfections, and it’s the tailor’s job to compensate for these with a little extra length here, or a little padding there. An 18th century tailor’s advice book instructs the tailor to observe his client as soon as he walks into the shop and to take note of the way he walks and stands, since we’re all libel to correct our posture when being measured and scrutinized. If those flaws are hidden in the measuring, they’ll be brutally exposed in the wearing. The attention spent preparing to make the suit brings the customer into the creative process, and reinforces the finished product as an investment (pun intended) with real value.
My three piece suit is a brown lightweight worsted wool with a blend of conservative and fashion forward elements. Certain elements like the notch lapels and single back vent are very traditional, while the trimmer cut and seven button vest are a little more modern/harken back to earlier periods in men’s fashion. Indochino made the shirt as well. I have trouble finding shirts that aren’t too short in the sleeve and too wide in the body. This one fits like a glove.”